Everglades: Kayaking the real Florida

May 1994

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Rick Stepp

Relaxing after a long day paddling

Kayaking through the Everglades provides an opportunity to truly comprehend the size of this unique area -the largest wilderness area in the Eastern U.S.A. I use the term 'unique' in its absolute sense, meaning nowhere else in the world does such a place exist.

The Everglades has many sounds, but one in particular gives an insight into the nature of these majestic wetlands and reveals some of its mysteries. As the falling sun leaves streaks of pastels across the sky on its voyage below the horizon, a peculiar hum arises. By the time the sun disappears it has grown into a subdued roar. An individual mosquito makes a slightly annoying buzz. Several million mosquitoes make a sound that commands respect.

My friend and I recently undertook a 100+ mile trip through the mangrove islands along the coast of the Everglades. The coastal estuaries of the Everglades are quite different from the popular image of the "river of grass". These vast expanses of sawgrass do exist but are farther inland and rely on the freshwater flow from the northwest. It is where this freshwater combines with saltwater that the tidal mangrove islands arise.

Great Blue Heron in black mangrove

Mangroves are essentially a tropical ecosystem and exist in Florida only up to the frost line. Mangroves are enormously productive systems and feed large populations of fish. Although we were both novice fishermen, we spent breaks from paddling by catching and releasing hundreds of fish.

Our journey took us from Everglades City on the northern boundary of the park to the Flamingo visitor center at the southern end where the Everglades drain into Florida Bay. We roughly followed a course known as the Wilderness Waterway, a passage that for the most part stays on the inside of the islands. However, we soon discovered the waterway was designed more for the convenience of motorized boats so we diverged from the marked route with the help of nautical maps of the area.

Although we were travelling during the peak season for visitors to the park, we encountered only a handful of other paddlers in the heart of the 'Glades. In many parts we were possibly the only humans in the area for years, due to the variety of routes available among the islands, rivers and coast.

Part of the time was spent along the coast proper, where several stretches of undisturbed beach exist. However they are best accessed during high tide. Visits during low tide meant dragging the boats over a mile through exposed coastal mudflats. Walking through mud up to your thighs is worth it, though, in order to experience some of the last undeveloped beaches in Florida (and the U.S.).

The only other high ground available for camping was on mounds formed by Calusa Indians thousands of years ago. Since the Park Service wants to limit the impact on beaches and mounds they've relied on another Native American innovation, chickees. These are wooden platforms placed in the water at intervals of about 10 miles or so. Seminole and Miccosukee Indians still live on similar structures to the north of the park. The ones the Park Service provide are large enough for a medium sized tent and cooking space, though some double chickees are available.

The variety of wildlife in the Everglades is staggering, although most of the fauna has been impacted by human activities outside of the park. Wading bird populations have declined 90% from the 1930's. Birds such as the Wood Stork, the American Bald Eagle and the Roseate Spoonbill all reside in the Everglades. Other threatened creatures include the American Crocodile (the only population in the U.S.), the West Indian Manatee and the Florida Panther.

Heading out to sea between mangroves

During our trip it was common for dolphins to suddenly appear next to the kayaks, breathe through their blowholes, and dive back into the water. Alligators were more abundant in the freshwater areas but many also live among the mangroves. We learned to avoid paddling too close to the west bank of the islands, this is where the gators lie to get the most sun.

One excursion along the sunny side of the mangroves made over thirty gators roll into the water and disappear. Even though as a native Floridian I've been around alligators all my life, this experience left me wondering how the underside of a 17ft kayak appears to a disturbed gator.

Kayaking through the Everglades is an event that makes you appreciate this method of travel. There is no other way to truly experience this place. In the open waters, when powerboats hurry past, you want to tell them all that they are missing in their rush from point A to B. Most important you want to tell them to listen to the sound at dusk... of mosquitoes.

Suggestions for everglades trips: Mosquitoes make an awesome sound at night and at times they (and the heat) can be overwhelming. It is best to plan a trip between the months of November and March, a time when the 'Glades is most hospitable for humans. Campsites can only be reserved in person and it is necessary to have alternative sites in case your choices are filled. You should plan on having an extra day or two to spend in the Everglades for such an occurrence. Freshwater is not available in the backcountry so you have to carry all that you need. Plan on at least one gallon per day per person. Tides are difficult to calculate because of the multitude of inflows and outflows among the islands. Use a tide chart as a rough guide. The high tide line is visible along the lower leaves of the mangroves as a result of staining from the tannins in the water. Use this to gauge the tide level. Although we travelled from north to south it is just as possible to go the opposite way. If you travel during the winter, winds are generally from the west-northwest, so any benefit is probably negligible. Nautical maps are invaluable. They are available at park headquarters for $15 each. You can save some money by xeroxing them if you have access to a map library. More information can be obtained from Everglades National Park P.O. Box 279 Homestead, FL 33030.