Destination: Saturna Island

July-August 1994

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

Saturna is the southern-most Gulf Island and one of the smallest -at least in population- with only a few hundred permanent residents, probably because it is less accessible than some of the other islands. We share with you here some of the Saturna Island paddle routes described by Mary Ann Snowden in Island Paddling (excerpted with the permission of the publisher, Orca Books for Victoria).

Saturna Circumnavigation
Saturna Facts
Breezy Bay B&B - Saturna

Saturna Circumnavigation

Distances:

Lyall Harbour to Cabbage Island via Winter Cove: 10 km
Cabbage Island to Fiddler's Cove Indian Reserve: 8 km
Fiddler's Cove to Lyall Harbour: 11 km

Highlights

Saturna Island is the least populated of all the major Gulf Islands. It is largely undeveloped - an appealing attribute as so many of Saturna's shores remain untouched. Paddle the open waters in Georgia Strait, and enjoy breathtaking views of Mount Baker. Enter the aquamarine waters around Cabbage Island, and camp in the arbutus woods. Round East Point where houses are so few and so well hidden that these shores appear uninhabited. Paddle under magnificent sandstone cliffs, enter pocket-shaped Fiddler's Cove and walk along vast stretches of sand, all the while watching for pods of orca out in Boundary Pass - a highlight that truly surpasses them all.

The Route

Cross the half-mile entrance to Lyall Harbour, heading toward the King Islets where shell beaches on the smallest of the two islets are particularly inviting. Minx Reef marks the entrance to Winter Cove, and although the shallows here pose little threat to shallow draft boats, watch for partially submerged, barnacle-covered rocks.

Located in the tiny cove along the south shore of Winter Cove is St Christopher's Church. The rebuilt structure, originally a Japanese boathouse, once seated about twenty parishioners. It is no longer used.

The park in the northeast corner of Winter Cove serves well as a stopover while waiting for slack water in Boat Passage. The 223 acres was originally the site of an aggregates plant; the open pit quarry and furnace produced chipped stones for road building. Upon purchasing the land in 1979, the province established Winter Cove Marine Park. A hand pump is useful to paddlers needing to top up their water supplies. There is no overnight camping here, but consider hiking the shoreline trail to Winter Point. From the point, look out over Boat Passage, a dramatic portal between Saturna and Samuel Islands - only 15 m wide! Water rushes into Winter cove on the ebb in streams up to 7 knots and on the flood spills out into the strait.

Swift tidal action here creates favourable fishing conditions for the river otter. On one occasion I watched four of these creatures. It seemed that every two minutes they would return to the surface with a small fish - their constant chatter proclaiming the success of their almost playful efforts.

But swift currents create conditions that are not nearly as favourable for the paddler. Enter Boat Passage close to slack only; otherwise expect a vigorous seven-knot ride through the turbulent water.

Once through the pass, either cross over to the Belle Chain Group or head along Saturna's eastern shore toward Cabbage Island. Since the 3 km stretch to Cabbage Island is open to northerly winds, check wind conditions for the Strait of Georgia prior to paddling.

There is little in the way of alluring stopovers on this side of Saturna as most beaches are covered with boulders, and the few sandy shores are close to private residences. The approach to Cabbage Island is studded with islets, a favourite haul-out for seals. Pine Islet, the largest in the islet chain, joins Cabbage Island at low tide. On several occasions I have hauled out at high tide onto a derelict barge on the outer shore of Pine and made camp on the huge, level timbers. In the evening I watched distant ferries crossing Georgia Strait and on one particular morning observed a blacktail buck and fawn cross the kelp-covered isthmus joining the tiny islet to Cabbage. They had come to browse the undergrowth and, seemingly undaunted by my presence, passed within 5 m of my crouched figure. The one disadvantage to this camp location is that gaining access to the water at low tide is somewhat difficult. Either hike a fair distance across an exposed mud flat, or choose a shorter distance by crossing slippery kelp- covered ledges.

Camp locations on Cabbage are much easier to access as paddlers may land anywhere along the long stretch of sand beach on the island's south side. Cabbage Island's entire 11 acres are marine parkland, and in the forest are many undeveloped camp locations. Consider swimming in the warm aquamarine waters of Reef Harbour, or hike out along the northern shores for spectacular views out over Georgia Strait and the distant mainland peaks. Nearby Tumbo Island appears most inviting from any number of directions, but the entire island is private land. The often-absent owners hire a caretaker to make sure no one lands on these alluring shores. Admire this island gem from the water.

Appropriately-named Boiling Reef off the eastern tip of Saturna gives just cause for concern to paddlers as tide waters swirl around East Point at maximum rates of 5 knots. Turbulent waters extend out from East Point in the form of huge whirls and eddylines all the way across to Tumbo Island. Schedule paddling in this area close to slack, using the Canadian Hydrographic Service's Current Atlas: Juan de Fuca to Georgia Strait to get the most accurate representation of tide flows. For those using the Tide and Current Tables, slack is determined using the secondary station Boundary Pass on the reference station Race Passage. To get to East Point from Tumbo Island, paddle one of three options.

The first follows the outer shoreline of Tumbo Island and, unless paddled close to slack, will likely require passing through the most extensive sections of turbulent water. The second follows the inner shores of Tumbo Island, riding the current in Tumbo Channel (the current in this channel always flows in an easterly direction, a phenomenon that for paddlers heading east works in their favour.) The sandstone cliffs on this side of Tumbo, although not high, are impressive. This second route will, however, require passing through some turbulent water, unless you are going through at slack. The third option avoids much of the East Point turbulence by angling across to Saturna Island before entering Tumbo Channel. Follow Saturna's north shore closely, and round East Point by taking advantage of back eddies.

Most paddlers presume that once they are around East Point, the effect of current is minimal. Such is not the case. Maximum floods and ebbs create currents of up to 2 knots all the way from East Point to Taylor Point where currents are especially noticeable off major headlands.

Boundary Pass is a huge body of water separating Canada and the United States. Freighters the size of city blocks use the pass as their gateway to Georgia Strait. Unless you are crossing over to the San Juans, their presence has little effect. But the winds that blow up Boundary Pass are a concern for paddlers. Listen to weather predictions, and if strong winds from the south are predicted, assume that they will affect paddling along this southern Saturna shore.

The south shore of Saturna is magnificent. Immediately upon rounding East Point, you will see huge, wave-sculpted sandstone cliffs rising 30 m or more to arbutus-covered ledges. Don't miss a stopover in Fiddler's Cove, located within the Indian reserve adjacent to Narvaez Bay. The cove's long sand beach is divided by a tiny islet that joins to the beach at low tide, and the nearby cabin offers temporary shelter from winds. Look for a trail leading away from the beach in the middle of the cove. It winds up the steep bank, traverses the top of nearby bluffs and eventually joins Fiddler's Road, a little-used offshoot of Saturna's East Point Road. Views from the top of the bluffs to the distant San Juans are magnificent, and as these bluffs face south, wildflowers blanket the forest floors in early spring.

Not only does the Tsawout Band permit exploring ashore here, but they have generously granted the use of Fiddler's Cove for overnight camping. They ask that this privilege not be abused in any way, that fires are not lit and that all that is packed in is also packed out.

Narvaez Bay provides little in the way of alluring stopovers. The mere presence of private residences at the head of the bay and in the sheltered nook on the bay's southern shore discourages land exploration. But the narrow bay adjacent to it boasts an alluring sand beach and open meadow. Unfortunately, the area is part of a tree farm, and signs discourage trespassing above the high tide mark.

The cliffs between Narvaez Bay and Monarch Head are undoubtedly the most magnificent on Saturna's shores. Their 60 m rise significantly dwarfs paddlers below. Falcons and eagles ride the thermals above the highest ledges.

Two coves just inside Monarch Head are accessible only at high tide as at low tide huge boulders block access to the sand beaches above. Those fortunate enough to land can walk through the open arbutus forest to the point. I watched as a pod of six orca passed this point during an unforgettable lunch stop. It is common to view resident orca anywhere within Boundary Pass.

Paddle close to the rocky shoreline between Monarch Head and Bruce Bight, and look into the clear waters for white plumose anemones, red and purple urchins and ochre stars. Here, seals often pull out on exposed rock ledges, raccoons scour the intertidal zone for molluscs, and overhead eagles scan the water for prey. Paddling the pass between Java Islets and Saturna's southern shore against current flows will noticeably deter progress. Paddle through with the current or close to slack.

Sheltered by Taylor Point is a magnificent sand beach and a meadow owned by longtime Saturna residents, the Campbells. Land on the beach, but respect the privacy of the adjacent lands by staying below the high water mark. A creek spills out onto the shore midway along this beach, and even though freshwater flows persist through the summer months, do not use the water as it is unsuitable for drinking due to the large numbers of cattle in the area.

Walk around to the outside of Taylor Point, originally owned by George Taylor, who at the turn of the century operated a stone quarry here as is evidenced by the angular cuts in the rock. Apparently, some of the stone was used in the construction of the Parliament Buildings in Victoria. The dilapidated wharf pilings may well have been part of the same operation. Underwater divers visiting Taylor Point take delight in the numerous bottles and other pieces of junk that were dumped from the wharf long ago.

From Taylor Point to Croker Point, barnacle-covered rock ledges make landings difficult. Yes, a murder did actually occur at Murder Point. An American and his daughter were killed here by natives in the winter of 1863.

Once around the point, paddlers may feel the effect of an ebb tide flowing out of Plumper Sound, although flows seldom exceed 1 knot. Winds from the north and northwest have more of an effect on paddling when they spill from the Strait of Georgia into Plumper Sound.

At 490 m, Mount Walburton Pike is a striking landmark. An ecological reserve on these slopes protects a virgin stand of Douglas Fir. The mountain is named after a unique Oxford graduate, who arrived here in the 1880's and is best remembered for his eccentric and colourful personality. Pike would often disappear for months on end, wore tailored suits until they fell off his back and went barefoot so often that he could use his toes as if they were fingers. Rated as one of the top big-game hunters in the world, he acquired a reputation as an explorer after making two great journeys into the Canadian north. Pike bought the farm at the foot of the mountain which eventually bore his name.

The same farm and beach on Breezy Bay has been the site of Saturna's famous Dominion Day (July 1) Lamb Barbecue. The event that started in 1950 as a school picnic grew so much that in the 1980's, crowds of 2,000 came to join the festivities. In 1989, the 40th anniversary of the event, the festivities were moved to Winter Cove Marine Park. [Ed. note: Saturna Beach, the original site of the annual barbecue, is slated to be made into a public park this year.]

Elliot Bluffs rise 30 m or more above sea level, providing highrise- style accommodation for the resident cormorants. Boot Cove is worth exploring if there is time but provides little in the way of beach exploration as most of the shoreline is inhabited. What is most interesting about this cove is a deceptive calm, for although it appears to be sheltered, in fact it is not. Apparently winds are funnelled by the cove's steep sides, and speeds up to 130 kph have been recorded. Paddlers can take comfort in knowing that the funnelling occurs during winter months, less so in spring and autumn, and not at all in summer.

Paddle back to Lyall Harbour to spend a ferry-wait on the balcony of the Lighthouse Pub, overlooking Plumper Sound.

Saturna Facts

Population:: 250
Size:: 11 km long and 4 km wide
Facilities:: 2 general stores; pub; post-office; community center; fire department; historic East Point Lighthouse; probably the highest number of B&B's per capita of any Gulf Island.
Events:: Saturna Lamb Barbecue (July 1) at Winter Cove Marine Park. Old-fashioned picnic, races, crafts and clubs. Proceeds go to community projects.

Breezy Bay B&B -Saturna

by Howard Stiff

We awoke to the familiar island sounds of honking geese below the window and baby lambs bleating in the distance. The room was bright with morning sun, and a mild breeze ruffled the long, white drapes. Somewhere, somebody was perking coffee, and the smells of breakfast drifted enticingly in through the window. From my dozy perspective in bed beneath a fluffy country quilt, the room seemed curiously tall, and for a long while I simply nestled in the sleepy, comfortable thoughts of an endless summer Sunday, with honey'd pancakes, and peaches, and distant, buzzing insects in golden wildflower meadows.

Later, sitting on the side of the bed, somewhat more alert, it occurred to me that this was not a dream. Indeed, it was just last night that we checked in to the Bed & Breakfast at Breezy Bay Farm on Saturna Island. Slowly getting dressed in the simply- furnished room, we paused to enjoy the rustic architecture of a farmhouse erected 100 years ago. The tall ceilings, the wooden floors, the thick wainscoting on every wall - history to explore in every nook and cranny.

Now a heritage site, the house was built by an English settler named Gerald Payne in 1894, and inhabited by him, his wife Elizabeth Fintry and four children. Together they cleared and farmed the land, raising sheep and planting wheat, apples and pears.

Preserved and restored by an "un-intentional community" of people who inhabit the various dwellings sprinkled about the 55- acre farm, and now managed as a B&B by long-time Saturna- resident Betty Spears, the farmhouse consists of four bedrooms and a library (stacked with classics) upstairs, a sunny breakfast room adjoining the original kitchen and walk-in pantry on the main floor, a diningroom and cozy living room.

Fully awake now, we wander downstairs. A visit to the kitchen, where Betty is doing up eggs. Armed with hot drinks, we opt for a pre-breakfast stroll around the homestead. Walking out onto the veranda, we pass along a stone pathway leading through the gateway to the beach; lupines and delphiniums reach for the early morning sunlight. Across the path, in the orchard, pear and apple trees planted by Payne in the 1890's are still producing fruit. We follow the geese down to the pond below the orchard. There, beneath the surface, dozens of golden-bellied salamanders hang suspended in the water; one makes a murmuring ripple at the surface as it steals a bubble of air.

And so the morning passes, quietly, peacefully, at Breezy Bay Farm, a delightful stop for the paddling traveller.

Probably the best way to arrive at the Breezy Bay Bed & Breakfast on Saturna Island is by kayak. However, if you can navigate through a ferry schedule, you need not go the entire distance under your own power. Here's how:

First, consult the B.C. Ferry Schedule for the Southern Gulf Islands. Whether you leave from the Tsawwassen or Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal, pick an arrival time on Saturna that leaves you with two hours of light. Drive to the appropriate ferry terminal at least half an hour before departure so you can park the car and walk your kayaks onto the Saturna ferry (beg, borrow or buy some kayak wheels for this kind of island-hopping).

[If, at Swartz Bay, you miss the last boat, drive south and turn left at the first set of traffic lights (about 2.3 km). Round the bend, beyond the North Saanich Yacht Club, you'll find MacDonald Park where you can camp overnight ($5.00 camping fee).]

The Saturna ferries wind through several Gulf Islands, making stops at some of them. Keep your eyes open for orcas and enjoy the flight. Upon arrival at Saturna, walk your kayaks off the boat. Turn immediately left to access the government wharf. Load your kayak and launch from the floating pier.

Consult chart #3310-3. From the ferry landing you have a lazy 1.5 nautical-mile-paddle south to Breezy Bay. If you have time, check out lagoon-like Boot Cove en route. Around Payne Point, notice the bluff dwellings of seabirds. Before you know it, you have entered Breezy Bay, a wide-mouthed bite out of the southwest corner of Saturna containing 3 beach landings. Select the middle beach - there's some moorings there and an ancient, partially-obscured telephone booth on the path behind the beach (no, it doesn't take calling cards). If you come across a flashing red buoy, you've hit Croker Point, and you've gone too far!

By road, Breezy Bay is a short drive or 20-minute walk from the ferry. Take East Point Road from the ferry dock, turn right onto Payne Road and follow it to the gates of the Breezy Bay Farm. Rates are $45.00 single, $60.00 double per night and include, of course, a scrumptious breakfast. Reduced rates are available for longer stays or for groups. Betty also mentioned that the rates will be discounted for paddlers and others who arrive without a car! Contact her for more details.

Please note that this is not a wheelchair-accessible site. Children are welcome, but pets are not on account of the farm animals. Reservations required.

Contact: Betty Spears, Breezy Bay Bed & Breakfast, Box 40, Saturna, B.C. 604-539-2937.